Interlocking Pavers Guide

Interlocking concrete pavers have become one of the most popular choices for driveways, patios, walkways, and steps in Hamilton — and for good reason. They offer a combination of natural beauty, structural durability, and long-term practicality that no other surface material can quite match. But their long-term performance depends almost entirely on what happens during installation — especially beneath the surface.

Why Choose Interlocking Pavers?

• Stunning appearance — Hundreds of colours, shapes, and patterns available to complement any home style
• Flexible, not rigid — Unlike concrete, pavers flex slightly through freeze-thaw cycles without cracking
• Easy to repair — Individual pavers can be lifted and replaced without disturbing the whole surface
• Permeable options — Permeable pavers allow stormwater to infiltrate, reducing runoff
• Adds property value — A premium paver driveway or patio is a strong selling feature
• 30+ year lifespan — With proper installation and basic maintenance

The Complete Interlocking Paver Installation Process

1. 1
   Design, Layout & Paver Selection We begin with a layout plan — defining edges, elevations, and drainage flow. Paver style, colour, and pattern (running bond, herringbone, basketweave, fan pattern) are selected. For driveways, we recommend a minimum 60mm (2.4 inch) thick paver rated for vehicular traffic. For patios and walkways, 40–50mm pavers are standard.
2. 2
   Excavation to Full Depth The area is excavated to the full design depth — typically 10–12 inches for a driveway, 8–10 inches for a patio, and 14+ inches for steps. This depth accommodates the granular base, bedding sand layer, and pavers themselves. Precise depth is critical — too shallow and the surface will heave; too deep wastes material.
3. 3
   Geotextile Fabric Installation A geotextile separation fabric is laid over the compacted subgrade. This fabric prevents fine soil particles from migrating upward into the granular base (a process called "pumping") which would cause the base to settle unevenly over time. It's a relatively inexpensive step that dramatically improves long-term performance — especially in Hamilton's clay soils.
4. 4
   Granular Base Compaction A 6–8 inch layer of compacted Granular A (for driveways) or Granular B (lower lifts) is installed and compacted to 98% Standard Proctor density. The base is the structural heart of a paver installation — it distributes load, provides drainage, and prevents settlement. Multiple compaction passes with a plate compactor are required. This layer must be perfectly level and accurately graded before proceeding.
5. 5
   Bedding Sand Screed A 1-inch layer of coarse bedding sand (Concrete Sand — not fine play sand) is spread over the base and screeded to a perfectly level surface using screed rails and a long straightedge. This sand layer cushions the pavers, allows minor height adjustment, and locks the pavers into position after compaction. The screeded surface must be kept clean and undisturbed until pavers are placed.
6. 6
   Paver Installation & Cutting Pavers are placed tightly together in the chosen pattern, working from a corner or a straight edge outward. Pavers must never be placed on the screeded sand surface — installers work from the placed pavers forward. Perimeter cuts are made with a diamond saw or guillotine splitter for clean, tight-fitting edges. We check for pattern consistency and surface level throughout installation.
7. 7
   Edge Restraints Installation Rigid plastic or aluminum edge restraints are spiked to the base along all perimeter edges. These restraints prevent the pavers from spreading outward under lateral loads — a common failure mode in installations without them. Edge restraints are mandatory for driveways and any area subject to vehicle loads or significant foot traffic.
8. 8
   Plate Compaction & Polymeric Sand The entire paved surface is compacted with a plate compactor fitted with a rubber pad to protect the paver faces. This settles the pavers into the bedding sand uniformly. Polymeric sand is then swept into the joints and compacted again. Polymeric sand is activated with water, which hardens it and resists joint erosion, weed growth, and ant intrusion — far superior to regular joint sand.

Common Paver Installation Mistakes to Avoid

Many paver jobs fail early due to installation shortcuts. Watch out for contractors who:

• Skip the geotextile fabric — settlement follows
• Use inadequate granular base depth — especially for driveways
• Use fine sand for bedding instead of coarse concrete sand — fine sand doesn't compact properly and allows pavers to shift
• Omit edge restraints — the edges will spread and fall away
• Use regular joint sand instead of polymeric — weeds take over within 1–2 years
• Fail to compact the base adequately — differential settlement creates a wavy surface

Maintaining Your Paver Surface

Interlocking pavers are low-maintenance, but not zero-maintenance:

• Reapply polymeric sand to joints every 3–5 years as needed
• Seal the surface every 3–5 years to protect colour and prevent staining
• Remove weeds promptly if they appear in joints before roots establish
• Replace damaged pavers individually — no need to disturb the whole surface